FALLING FOR FALL FLOWERS ~ Bulbs, Containers & Care

Selecting a Container for Fall Arrangements

Fall is a great time to look around your gardens and pick dried plant material for arrangements - and it’s free!  

We have called containers in the past “vases,” however now the term of “containers” is used.  A container can be anything that holds your flowers, foliage or dried plant material.  

When choosing a container, a beginner designer may pick a color of green, black or brown since these are basic colors and one usually finds plant material in those colors.  It is always a good idea to carry some color of the container (with the use of sticks, flowers or greens) up into the flower portion of the arrangement.  

First, look at the space where your design will go and decide about how large it should be.  Choose a container that will be about 1/3^rd the size of the whole arrangement.  Consider what type of mechanics (methods of supporting your flowers or dried material such as water, oasis or foam) is needed.  

Do you need a traditional or contemporary container for the setting?  Look around your home and you will find many items used for other things that can hold dried material or fresh flowers.  Just make sure container is tested for water leakage.  Have fun, sit back and enjoy YOUR creation. 

Deer Resistant Bulbs

There really is no such thing as "deer proof" plants.  Young deer will nibble at anything (just like a human baby), especially if it is a new plant being introduced into your garden.  And when their source of food is limited, deer will nibble at or eat whatever is available, including plants that may kill them such as pine needles. 

There are, however, many "deer resistant" bulbs that will keep your garden blooming from late winter through early Fall.  They vary in size from a mere 4 inches to over 4 feet tall so they can be placed just about anywhere in the flower bed, not just in the border.  There are hundreds of varieties of daffodils, narcissus and jonquils, as well as alliums available for purchase.  Some other deer resistant varieties you may consider interesting are crocus (Spring and Fall), snowdrops, Grecian windflowers, Dutch iris bulbs (Oriental Beauty), hyacinth, grape and English wood hyacinth, fritillaria, scilla, anemone, leucojum (they look like giant lily of the valley), camassia, winter aconite, ipheron, chionodoxa, eremurus (foxtail lily) and trout lily.  

Fritillaria

Camassia

Daffodil

Bulbs should be planted early in the Fall as they need autumn and winter temperatures to provide natural refrigeration.  If you have problems with squirrels digging up and eating the bulbs, place a piece of chicken wire (with 3/4 to 1 inch wide spacing) over the top of the soil where you have just planted the bulbs.  This will allow the plant leaves to grow through the wire, but prevent the critters from getting at the bulbs.  

When placing the bulbs in the ground, if you are uncertain as to which way is up, place the bulbs on their sides.  They will naturally reach for the warmth and rays of the sun as they grow.  

There are many catalogs and web sites where bulbs are sold.  Many are on sale right now, so this is the perfect time to purchase.  Who doesn't love a bargain? 

Fall Garden Chores

Fall Care for Tuberous Plants - Dahlias

Dahlias arise from thickened roots called tubers which generally don't survive our winters in the Hudson Valley.  Although a few light frosts won't damage the underground parts of the plants, they must be lifted and stored before a hard freeze occurs.  

When the leaves turn yellowish and droop, it is a good idea to label each plant’s color and height.  If you don't identify each plant with a tag, in the spring when it is time to replant you will have only a box of very similar looking brown tubers, and you will have to take a chance on how they will fit in your garden.  You can tie a label on the uprooted tubers with some wire and a stiff paper tag.

 

In the northeast, early to late October is the ideal time for harvesting the dahlia tuber.  With sharp snips cut off the stems just above the soil level at a node. A node is a point on the stem where it is solid, between the hollow parts.  It is best to use a spading fork about 8 to 10 inches from the center stem to lift the developed dahlia tubers. They will be quite large by summer's end.  

Washing the tuber is not recommended because a light coating of soil will prevent dehydration.  You can spread the tubers out on a porch or garage floor for a few days to dry.  Place the tubers, stems up, in boxes with peat moss, perlite or sand in a cool dry place (40-45 degrees F) where they won't be exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations.  Throughout the winter you may want to check them periodically.  If you detect any rotting ones, you would want to remove them.

 

In the spring when the chance of frost has passed bring them out and replant.  They multiply well so you can separate the clumps of tubers prior to planting to share with friends or expand into new garden territories.

 

Fall Care for Rhizomes - Cannas

Cannas will not survive a winter outdoors in our area.  It is necessary to dig up the rhizome in the fall.  After the early frost, cut them back to 4 to 6 inches from the ground.  Dig up the clump with a spading fork.  

You may allow them dry for a few hours before packing in boxes, crates, or paper bags for storage.  Similar to dahlias, you may store them at 40 to 50 dgrees F. in a dry location until spring. The large clumps can be divided before planting in the spring.

With the recovery and storage effort you make in the fall for most tubers and rhizomes (remember gladioli and tuberous begonias too) you will be well rewarded in the spring.